Fuser Cleaning Cartridges – Rebuilding the Web Cartridges for the Xerox® 4110 Style: (WorkCentre® 4110, 4112, 4127, 4590, 4595, D95, D110, D125, & D136)

Fuser Web / Cleaning Cartridge

Replacing the webs in the fuser cleaning web cartridges is one way to reduce your supplies cost when running these marvelous 4110 style copiers. It’s a fairly simple repair really. The first time you’re working on one, you might be uncertain after it’s taken apart exactly which way the web needs to be routed when you put it back together. This article will help serve to illustrate exactly how these go back together, to shorten the learning curve a bit. First we’ll talk a bit about the part numbers for the web cartridges, and the commercially available aftermarket parts involved. Also we’ll see how the machine knows when the web is done. Next we’ll take one of these babies apart in our rebuild procedure. Finally, we’ll go over the simple web reset procedure.

Here’s one very nice thing about these web cartridges: the fuser web/cleaning cartridges remain unchanged throughout the years for this style of machines. Copiers from any of the three families—4110 family (4110 / 4590 / 4595), 4112 family (4112 / 4127), and D125 family (D95 / D110 / D125 / D136)—can use any of the following interchangeable part numbers: 008R13042, 008R13085, 008R13000, or 108R00976. Likewise, this means the webs themselves (4110FW) and the web pinch rollers (4110FWPR) are interchangeable throughout the style as well. Usually the pinch roll is ok for a second cycle, but the web itself should always be replaced rather than trying to rewind it.

The machine does have a “web count” which allows it to warn the operator when it thinks it’s running low on web material, but the system isn’t perfect. If the customer running the machine runs all long pages (11×17 for example), it can run to the end of the web physically before the count is up. In those cases there may not be any warning that the web cartridge will need to be replaced soon. When it comes to the end of the web, the OEM web pulls clean off the end of the metal supply shaft. There is a pair of spring-metal contact arms riding on the supply end of the web roll, and once the web is gone, both of these make contact with the metal supply shaft. This completes a circuit designed to warn the machine that the web is completely out, triggering a hard stop to help protect the heat roll and also the web pinch roll. The newest generic replacement webs we have seen only recently, also have the ability to pull all the way off the metal shaft, which is a great improvement over the earlier products that were out there. Earlier generic webs were made with the web material glued to the metal supply shaft. On those, the web material would tear off, rather than coming off the shaft. The machine would not know the web was out, so the web pinch roll would get ruined, making it necessary to replace both the web and the pinch roll in those cases.

Photo #1: Gears (shown without rear gear plate)

REBUILD PROCEDURE:

1. Remove the rear gear plate (two screws: 5.5mm nut driver or #2 Philips head). Watch out! The gears can fall off easily once the plate is off. See photo #1 to see how the gears are arranged.
2. Remove the web drive gear (from the rear end of the web’s “D” shaped take-up shaft), and the first double idler gear nearest the web drive gear. Also remove the web supply gear (that one has a one-way bearing inside of it to keep the supply roll from turning backwards), and finally remove the three rear bushings (plastic bearings): one from the web’s supply shaft, one from the web’s drive shaft, and the third from the web pinch roll.
3. Remove the old web and web pinch roller (a blue or orange foam roll in the middle). Check the condition of the web pinch roller. If it has flat spots or it’s deformed or damaged, replace it. If it’s still in good condition, it may last a second cycle.
   

   Photo #2: Remove Gears & Bushings

4. To install the new web, you’ll need to sneak the take-up shaft end of the new web under the metal support bar at an angle (see Photo #4). Once it’s through, raise the take-up shaft out of the way, so you have room to install the web pinch roller. Note that the web pinch roller needs to be underneath the web material (see Photo #5). Install the web pinch roll in its front bushing and slide the rear bushing into position in the metal frame to retain the rear end.
5. Next, install the web’s supply roll and take-up roll shafts into their front bushings, and slide the rear bushings into place in the rear frame to hold the shafts properly.
   

   Photo #3: With the web removed, the supply shaft’s contacts can be seen.

   

   Photo #4: Sneaking the Take-up Shaft under the metal guide bar.

   

   Photo #5: New web in place: from supply roll, under metal bar, over pinch roll & under take-up shaft.

6. Slide all of the gears back into position, except for the web drive gear, and make sure all the bushings stay in place in the rear frame. Rotate the web’s take-up/drive shaft to remove any slack from the web material and then slide the web drive gear onto the take-up/drive shaft.
7. Reinstall the rear gear plate with its two screws and rotate the web drive gear on the take-up shaft of the web counterclockwise for several full rotations, to make sure the web material and all of the gears are turning nicely.WEB RESET PROCEDURE:
   Now as to how to reset the web count and get the machine running again, this is done by pressing the “9” and the “Stop” button simultaneously. The machine will ask if you just replaced the web cartridge and you’ll choose “yes” and that resets the web count. Piece of cake!

That about covers it. Happy web repairs folks! Hope you’re all enjoying the beautiful autumn weather.