Black Drum Cartridges – Revisited (new models, new cartridge versions: 13R602 / 13R655 / 13R663 / 13R649 / 13R671)
The Xerox DocuColor (DC) 250 style of machines continue to be released with new models (nearly 20 models so far and counting), all of which share nearly the same drum cartridges with only subtle differences between the various versions. Last month we revisited the color drum cartridge rebuilding and took a good look at the differences and similarities between the versions of the color cartridges. This month, let’s take a similar second look at the black drum cartridges.
Of the four drum cartridges in each machine, the one for the black color is found in the “R1” position. It is easily replaced by sliding out the cartridge and then lifting the drum cartridge by its two finger-pull rings. There is one ring at the front and one near the rear end of the cartridge.
Here’s a list of the black cartridge reorder numbers and which models each fits:
13R602 / 013R00602 – For (Docucolor) DC-240,250,242,252,260, (WorkCentre) 7655, 7665, 7675, 7755, 7765, 7775
13R655 / 013R00655 – For (Digital Color Press) DCP 700
13R663 / 013R00663 – For Xerox Color 550, 560, 570
13R649 / 013R00649 – For (DocuColor) DC-5000
13R671 / 013R00671 – For Xerox Color C75, J75 Press
Installing a new CRUM chip on the black drum cartridge will allow a little more life, although it is not likely to last a complete 2nd cycle without a new drum and cleaning blade. The CRUM chip is an RF (radio frequency) type of CRUM which doesn’t make any physical contact in the machine. Replacing the CRUM will reset the drum counter and allow you to maximize the cartridge’s yield. Each cartridge version has a unique CRUM so you need to install the correct one for the exact model in which it’s going.
The stated yields for the black drum cartridges vary by model (ranging in the books between 190K and 260K depending on which machine’s info you’re reading). Actually, the yield also depends on the usage of the machine the cartridge is installed in. Machines which run a lot of long runs of prints or copies get more copies before the machine calls for new drum cartridges and machines which usually run only a few copies or prints for each job will get considerably less copies between “Replace Drum Cartridge Now” messages. Also the cleanliness of the filters can add life to the cartridges by allowing more copies to be produced between cleaning cycles.
When you buy one of these black drum cartridges, it comes with the charge corotron on top. That corona assembly is also spared by itself under a few possible part numbers, all of which are interchangeable: 13R604 / 13R630 / 13R633 / 13R650. The stated yield for the corotron varies from model to model and in some models it has a shorter lifespan than the black drum cartridge itself (stated yield ranges from 120K to 190K for the corotron assembly). Removing the charge corotron from the top of the black drum cartridge is as easy as sliding it forward about a quarter of inch and then lifting it up and off.
The charge corotron has a little board on the rear with two electrical contacts. This board has a pico-fuse on it which is designed to tell the machine when a new corotron is installed. The machine sees the fuse in place, blows the fuse, and resets the counter. The idea behind the fuse is that it blows so that it will only reset the count one time.
The black drum cartridges are pretty straight forward and they come apart easily for cleaning and replacing components. Nowadays you can get aftermarket replacement drums, drum blades, and of course the CRUM chips. There is also a cleaning brush which helps the blade do its job. There’s a waste toner auger alongside the cleaning brush which takes the waste toner away through a spring-loaded sliding shutter at the rear end of the cartridge.
The differences between the five versions of the black drum cartridges are confined to the CRUMs being unique for each, and also the DC250 version of the cartridge has a different shape to the front and rear end covers. The DC250 cartridges have complete circles near the center of each end cover, whereas all of the other cartridges have notches cut into those central circles. In either of the photos below, the cartridge shown on the left is a DC700 and the one shown on the right is a DC250 version. Fortunately the drums and blades are interchangeable throughout all five versions of the cartridges.
Now for a double-take on the procedure for rebuilding one of these.
PROCEDURE:
Have a look at Photo #1 which shows the orientation of the cartridge as I’ll refer to it in the procedure which follows.
1. As mentioned earlier, the charge corotron assembly comes off by sliding it forward about ¼,” and then lifting it up and off.
2. Remove the front end cover (1 Phillips head screw). On the front end cover you’ll find a pair of static grounding clips. The front finger pull falls off in your hand. Behind the cover you’ll also find a pair of D-shaft gears which transfer drive from the cleaning brush to the waste toner auger. Mind the gears because they will now fall right off.
Note that the DCP700 cartridge (shown on the left in each photo), has notches cut into the circles near the middle of each end cover. The DC250 cartridges shown on the right in each photo have complete circles without the notches.
3. Remove the rear end cover (1 Phillips head screw). See Photo #2. The RF Connector CRUM (customer replaceable unit monitor) is located behind this cover (it’ll fall off of the cover at this point easily enough). You will need to replace this RF CRUM to reset the black drum count. The rear finger pull is now loose, so take it off. The cleaning brush drive gear can also be easily removed at this point.
4. Turn the unit on its left side so that the drum is facing upward. Now remove the rear drum bearing retaining clip which slides directly out the back (see Photo #3) and the front drum bearing retaining clip which slides out the front in a similar fashion. Then lift the drum up and out of the cartridge.
5. The drum cleaning blade can be removed (2 Phillips head screws). You will need to either peel off or cut the “R1” sticker as well as the barcode sticker because both stickers are on the blade’s bracket and the plastic frame.
6. Clean everything up nicely using a toner dust cloth and a vacuum with a toner-rated filter. Be particularly gentle around the cleaning brush and the Mylar recovery blade which are easily damaged. Slide forward the spring-loaded waste toner “Cleaning Auger Shutter” to get to the toner in the end of the waste auger (refer again to Photo #2).
7. Reassemble it all. Pay close attention to the drum bearing retainers, as they need to trap the bearings snugly.
That should do it on these guys. Enjoy the Spring! Hopefully no more snow for us this year!
