Xerox Docucolor 240, 250, 242, 252, 260, WorkCentre 7655, 7665, 7675, 7655, 7665, 7675, Xerox Color 550/560/570, C60/C70, DCP-700/700i/770, Color Press C75/J75
The first time we looked at one of these fusers was in an ENX article in early 2009. I found the procedure to be relatively involved and time consuming, but still well worth the effort. Recently a technician who I know and respect mentioned that this fuser was “easy” to rebuild. He told me he has gotten so good at these, that he can rebuild one in ten minutes flat. That was amazing to hear! I thought maybe he was getting it confused with some other fuser. He explained that he opens the fuser like a clamshell. I missed that back in 2009, so I think it’s time to revisit the rebuild procedure on this extremely popular series of fusers. Let’s have another look, this time with an easier way to approach it.
We’ll get about half way through the procedure this month and come back to finish the story next month, since the article runs a bit long.
FUSER REBUILD PROCEDURE (part 1):
- Start with the top cover (there are 2 screws on top from above, and 2 screws near the right side, also from above. These are 3mm short screws: 5.5mm hex, or #2 Philips driver). This gives you easy access to both the thermostat and the fuser reset fuse as well as the thermistors (see photo 1). The thermostat is can-shaped and in-line with the fuser heat lamp circuits. The fuser reset fuse is a standard bullet-shaped thermal fuse. When replaced, if you run 50 copies or more, the fuse gets hot enough to blow, at which point the machine will reset the fuser life to 100%.
Photo #1: Top Cover off… Thermistors, Thermostat & Fuser Reset Fuse
- Remove the front end cover (2 screws from the front), which exposes the pressure gear / cam mechanism and its home sensor (see photos 2 and 3).
Photo 2: Front End Cover
Photo 3: Front End Exposed
- Remove the rear end cover (2 screws from rear, see photos 4 and 5).
Photo 4: Rear End Cover
Photo 5: Rear End Exposed
- Remove the lower fee-in baffle (metal baffle, refer back to photo 1).
- Disconnect the 3 front heat lamp terminals and remove the front heat lamp holder bracket (1 screw). Note: do not remove the shoulder screw at the upper right corner as that is the pivot point for opening the clamshell later.
- Disconnect the 3 rear heat lamp terminals and remove the rear heat lamp holder bracket (1 screw, see photo 6). Note: don’t remove the shoulder screw at the upper left corner.
Photo 6: Disconnect Lamp Rear Terminals
- Carefully slide each of the heat lamps out one at a time. Be very gentle.
- Disconnect the blue connector for the exit switch at the back end (3 yellow wires).
- Measure the height of the pressure screws so you can return the pressure to the same position later (see photo 7). Then back out both pressure screws.
Photo 7: Measuring the Pressure Tower Screws
- Next remove the two screws which secure the top clamshell closed to the bottom frame (see the screw next to the ruler and the pressure screw shown in photo 7).
- Now raise the upper half of the fuser. It will pivot on the two shoulder screws and open like a clamshell (see photo 8).
Photo 8: The Fuser with the Clamshell Open
- Loosen the screws for the heat roll bearing retainers (these are little metal angled pieces which hold the bearings in place). Pivot the bearing retainers away from the heat roll bearings (see photo 9).
Photo 9: Pivot the Bearing Retainers Away.
Ahh! The perfect place for a cliff hanger! Next month we’ll go through the other half of the procedure. We’ll cover the removal of the heat roll while protecting it from the stripper plate. Then we’ll install a new heat roll and adjust the height of the stripper plate. Finally, we’ll also deal with the pressure sleeve assembly, before reassembling everything.
