(Replacing the Developer and DV Pull-Seal) Xerox® CopyCentre® C118, C123/128/133 & WorkCentre M118/118i, M123/128/133, Pro123/128/133 (013R00589) Phaser® 5500/5550 (113R00670), WC-5225/5230/5235 (101R00435), & WC-5325/5330/5335 (013R00591) 
In a previous ENX article about the C123 style drum cartridges, we concentrated on the upper half of the unit, rebuilding only the drum and cleaning section and leaving the developer station below untouched. That made sense since the drums, blades, CRUM chips and charge rollers were available in the aftermarket, while nobody seemed to have good replacement developer material for sale for this series. Well that finally seems to be changing, so it’s time to take a crack at a truly complete rebuild, including developer and the developer pull-seal.
We’ll start where the previous article left off. Once you have the two halves of the cartridge separated, you’ll want to work on the bottom half (developer and pull-seal) before you rebuild the top half (new drum, blade, charge roller, and CRUM chip). Simply put, you’ll want to replace the developer material and the developer compartment’s pull-seal.
Using the seal makes it possible to ship the rebuilt units when you’re done. Before the developer and seal were available, you could only rebuild the top half, and you would be forced to hand-deliver the cartridge. This was because turning the unit over with the developer free in the mixing area and on the mag roll could allow developer material to get out of the lower half. It could get into the drum, blade and charge roll area, and ruin your good work. It was also less than ideal not to be able to replace the developer material because the developer would eventually wear out sometime after the 2nd cycle.
When you buy a new drum cartridge, the developer is in a compartment above the mixing augers. When your customer installs the new cartridge and pulls the seal, the developer drops down into the mixing area where it can get over to coat the mag roll. You’ll need to clean out the old developer, install the Mylar peel-and-stick pull-seal, and pour the new shot of developer into the storage compartment.
PROCEDURE:
1. Remove the metal toner feed shutter from the top of the rear end of the DV Unit. There’s one screw from the top which releases a spring support (see Photo #2 & 3). With the support off, you can remove the two springs and gently slide the shutter off toward the rear of the unit to remove it. Be very careful with the seal and Mylar under the shutter.
-
- Photo 1 &2: Removing the DV Top Cover
Photo #3: Spring Support
2. Next, remove the top cover which includes the developer storage compartment. There are two screws from the right, one at either end of the unit (see Photo #1 & 2). Then with the screws out, you can pop the 3 clips along the right side of the top cover by prying upward. Lift the top cover off. Be extremely gentle with the Mylar mag-roll seal blade, the two Mylar end seals, and the foam gaskets on this top cover. You don’t want to damage them or suck them into a vacuum by accident.
3. Clean the top cover thoroughly and remove any residue where the old pull-seal was adhered to the developer storage compartment. Make sure the surface where the pull-seal goes is completely clean of any residue.
4. Install the new pull-seal. It has peel-and-stick adhesive on it. Be careful to make sure it is firmly adhered to the plastic without any wrinkles (see Photo #4).
Photo #4: DV seal and plug
5. Remove the plug from the front end of the developer storage compartment, pour in the new developer material, and reinsert the plug.
6. Dump out the old developer from the mixing station and mag roll area, and then remove the ADC sensor. If you pivot the sensor downward at the front end till it clears the plastic clip at the rear end of the sensor, you can remove it from its sensing hole (see Photo #5). It’s important to remove the sensor because it is static-sensitive and can be easily damaged by static generated during vacuuming or using forced air on the developer unit.
-
- Photo #5: Pivot the ADC sensor downward to remove it.
-
- Photo #6: Plastic shims can be used to set the space between the mag roll and trimmer bar.
7. Remove the mag roller trimmer bar. Before you remove it, you will want to get a piece of plastic to use as a spacer (an old credit card or store card works well here). Just don’t use a good credit card because the magnetism on the mag roll will destroy the card’s magnetic strip. Try it for fit before you remove the trimmer blade’s two screws. You want to be able to return the trimmer blade to the same distance from the mag roll on either end when you reassemble the unit (see Photo #6). Under the trimmer bar is a plastic float which lifts out.
Photo #7: “Pop” the front mag roll gear off.
8. Now the mag roll can be removed. You’ll need to first remove the mag roll’s front drive gear (this transmits drive from the mag roll to the stirring augers in the unit). It is “snapped” on pretty solid but if you pry carefully it will pop off (see Photo #7). Once it is released you will have enough room to slide the front plastic bearing out of the frame. Slide both the front and rear plastic bearings out of the frame and lift the mag roll out of its cradle.
9. Clean the augers and mixing area thoroughly. Be gentle with the foam gaskets and the Mylar center seal between the two stirring augers.
10. Reassemble everything. Below are a few pointers to watch for when reassembling: – Pay attention to the “keys” on the plastic bearings for the mag roll to be sure that they seat all the way into the frame. – Make sure the mag roll front drive gear is pushed all the way back into position as far in as it can go, so it makes good full contact with the tiny idler gear under it. – Use plastic shims (or the old credit card mentioned earlier) as spacers to set the space between the trimmer bar and the mag roll at both ends. – When you put the top half (drum and cleaning unit) back on the bottom half (developer unit), turn the mag roll’s white coupling drive gear (the one on the mag roll) to make sure everything turns freely.
That’s it! Now you have a fully rebuilt drum cartridge with a new drum, blade, charge roll, CRUM reset chip, developer, and pull-seal. This one you can ship to your customer’s location with confidence. Enjoy the rebuilding everyone!
