Xerox® 7328 Family Fuser Modules Part II

Repairing and Rebuilding the Fusers for the WorkCentre® 7328, 7335, 7345 & 7346 series, and 7228, 7235 & 7245 series and C C32 & C2128 series

7328 Fuser Module

Last month we learned a whole bunch about the 7328 family fuser modules and the fusers of the models which came before. We checked out the differences and similarities between the four versions of the fuser which came out over the years. We also covered the pin-outs of the fuser’s connector so you’d know which pins to check across to test the lamps and other components. Then we started into the instructional on how to take one of these fusers apart to rebuild it and save some money in the process. This month, we’ll recap steps 1-4, and go into depth for the rest of the instructions.

Let’s get right into it. Here were the first 4 steps in a nutshell. These steps were given with more detail in last month’s article where you’ll also find the first 5 photos.

1. First we Removed the “Front End” cover (2 screws)
2. Next we removed the “Rear End” cover (2 screws)
3. Then the Exit Baffle (2 screws)
4. Followed by the “Exit Pinch Roll Baffle” (2 screws)

 
Now for the 5^th step and beyond!

5. Remove the Inner Cover by turning the fuser so that the Inner Cover is facing upwards and remove 2 screws (see Photo #6).
6. Flip the fuser over again and remove the Outer Cover. You’ll need to remove 2 screws (see Photo #7), remove the rubber caps from the Pressure Tower Screws at either end of the fuser, and pop the cover off of the frame near the Pressure Tower Screws at either end (see Photo #8). It will then lift up and off with a little jiggling.
7. Now that the fuser is pretty well stripped down, it’s high time to remove the 2 Fuser Heat Lamps. This is best accomplished by disconnecting the 2 lamp terminals at the rear end, and the 2 terminals at the front end.  Next remove the front heat lamp holder bracket (1 screw).  Now you can slide the two heat lamps out through the front end.
8. Next you’ll want to remove the Thermistor / Thermostat Assembly. Start by going to the rear of the fuser and disconnecting the white and blue thermistor connectors, and the fuser lamp return connector (the large white connector with the thick black wire). See Photo #9.  Remove the thermistor and lamp return wires from their wire guides on both the front and rear ends of the fuser.  Then remove 2 screws and the Thermistor / Thermostat Assembly will come off for you.
9. Re-tape the thermistor heads.  This is important because if the tape wears all the way through, damage can happen to the thermistor and also to your new Heat Roller’s surface. You can use Kapton^® Tape or K250 (1/2 inch width is good here).  It’s important to remove the old tape very carefully from the head of the thermistor.  Use a good sharp razorblade, always cutting outward (don’t cut in towards the padding), and be careful not to damage the foam pad or wires under the tape.  Then put only one layer of tape over the thermistor’s head, and anchor it with another piece of tape going around the base in the opposite direction (see Photos #10, 11, & 12).ur fuser new life.  Have a good month and we’ll reconvene next month for some new adventures.

10. Take off the Fuser Entrance Guide, which have 2 short screws with washers under them.

11. Next you will remove the Stripper Plate / Exit Pinch Roll Assembly: Release the two springs which tension the Stripper Plate (see Photo #13) and then pivot the Stripper Plate / Exit Pinch Roll Assembly until it can be extracted from the metal shaft it pivots on (see Photo #14). Now clean the edge of the Stripper Plate very gently. The newer models have a thin Text Box: Photo 15: Note how much of the Pressure Screws are below the frame by marking or counting threads. Teflon-like coating which is easily damaged. On this kind you can use your fingernail to scrape the edge carefully. You want to remove any residual fused toner while taking care not to damage the coating. Older models had a metal plate without the coating and on that kind, you can gently scrape with the blade of a flat-head screwdriver.

12. Take careful note of how far the Pressure Screws are screwed down to the frame. You can either mark the screws or count threads exposed below the frame, so you can return them to the same pressure later when you reassemble the fuser (see Photo #15).

13. Now for the Pressure Sleeve Assembly. Back out the two pressure tower screws carefully and remove them. Next pivot the Pressure Sleeve Assembly up and off. It might prove helpful later if you first study how the pressure sleeve assembly’s metal tension arms pivot on metal studs and also how the pressure sleeve assembly sits into the tension arms.

14. Replace the Pressure Sleeve if it’s damaged. Note that the pressure sleeves often look wrinkled or twisted after only a short time in use, and this is not always a signal that the sleeve is bad. Make sure there is adequate lubrication inside the sleeve. The recommendation is to put a small amount of high temperature grease on the plastic parts which contact the inside of the sleeve, but avoid getting too much grease on the pressure pad portion of the assembly.

15. With the pressure off, you can now easily remove the Fuser Heat Roller by removing the Retaining Clips from either end of the Heat Roller. Check the Fuser Drive Gear for wear and the Heat Roll Bearings to make sure they’re not seized up. Install a new Fuser Heat Roller.

16. Reassemble it all. Pay special attention to the pressure screws. Return them to the same position they were in before you removed them. Uneven or overly tight pressure can cause wrinkled copies, while inadequate pressure can cause jams and poor fusing of the image.

Now let’s look at how to reset the Fuser Count for each of the models.

FUSER COUNT RESET PROCEDURES:

· C32 version: 008R12904 / 126K13940 (110 volts), (008R12905 / 126K14890 for 220 volt version)

For Models: C32/40, (DocuColor) DC1632, C2240, C3535, & (WorkCenre) M24, M32/40, Pro32/40
Hold down the ‘9’ and the ‘AC’ buttons simultaneously. Select ‘Yes’ when the machine asks if you replaced the fuser.

· C2128 version: 008R12933 (110 volts), (008R12934 for 220 volt version)

For: (WorkCentre Pro or CopyCentre) C2128, C2636, C3545)
To get into User Tools mode, Press the ‘Access’ button. Then use the default User Password ‘1111’ (4 ones) and press ‘Login.’ Press ‘More,’ and then look for “Supply Management.” Select the part whose counter you want to reset and follow the prompts (it’ll ask you if you replaced the part, touch ‘Yes’).

· 7328 version: 008R13040 (110 volts), (008R13028 for 220 volt version)

For: (WorkCentre) 7228, 7235, 7245, 7328, 7335, 7345

OR… 7346 version: 008R13055 (110 volts), (008R13056 for 220 volt version)

For: (WorkCentre) 7346 only.
First enter diagnostic mode (CE Mode): Hold ‘0’ for at least 10 seconds, then press ‘Start.’ At the password prompt, enter ‘6789’ followed by ‘Confirm.’ Now press the ‘Machine Status’ button. Choose the Tools tab and then choose the following from left to right: System Settings, Common Service Settings, and then in the right column, scroll down and touch Maintenance / Diagnostics. Scroll down and touch the button for Adjustment / Others. Choose ‘HFSI Counters’ (High Frequency Service Items). You’ll be prompted for a Chain-link number. Enter ‘954-804’ and press ‘Confirm.’ The current fuser count will show up. Touch ‘Reset Current Value’ followed by ‘Reset.’

Congratulations! You’ve given your fuser new life. Have a good month and we’ll reconvene next month for some new adventures