Technical Tip

Xerox WorkCentre 4265 Drum Cartridge

Rebuilding the Drum Cartridges for Xerox^® WorkCentre^® 4150, 4250, 4260, & 4265

The 4150 style started with just one model, which was later joined by the 4250/4260. Now there’s a newcomer to the family: the WorkCentre 4265. All of these machines bring compact speed to the office environment, boasting speeds of 50-55 pages per minute for a desktop sized monochrome multifunction copier/printer. Extending the life of the drum cartridges is a major part of keeping the cost down to help ensure that these machines remain profitable members of the fleet. We took the upper half of these cartridges apart in an ENX article six years ago (December 2008) and learned how to replace the drum, blade, and charge roll, but two new developments in this series warrant a re-write. First, let’s introduce the brand new 4265 model and look at what’s changed on the newest version. Second, good replacement developer has only recently become available for this series. So, we’ll have to expand the older article to include info on how to replace the developer material and the DV pull seal on the lower half of the cartridge. It will finally be possible to truly and completely rebuild these cartridges.

There are 3 generations/versions of these cartridges, which for a few reasons are not interchangeable. The main difference is that the drum reset CRUM chips have changed completely from version to version. See the photos and read up on the differences as they are detailed at the end of this article. Other subtler differences are noted in the text of the procedure.

Below are the three versions of drum cartridges (or “Smart Kits” as Xerox likes to call ‘em):

• 4150 – 013R00623 (13R623): Current Retail Price (late 2015) = $378.89 (stated yield: 55K)
• 4250/4260 – 113R00755 (113R755): Retail Price (late 2015) = $459.99 (stated yield: 80K)
• 4265 – 113R00776 (113R776): Retail Price (late 2015) = $179.99 (stated yield:100K) Note that most likely the price on this new cartridge will increase as time goes on, just as the earlier models did.

These cartridges include two basic halves: the top portion houses the drum, charge roll, cleaning blade, and waste toner auger. The lower half is the developer housing. This cartridge is dual-component, so as you’ll see, it does have developer and a mag roll.

Let’s see how these come apart!

PROCEDURE:

1. Start by removing the top rear end cover (see Photo #1). There are four screws from the rear, and then you’ll need to do a little wiggling from side to side to work the cover off.
2. Next remove the outer front end cover. Two screws come out from the front and then you’ll release a single hook at the top right, where it sticks through to just above the drum. There’s a small paddle gear, which pulls off of its ‘D’ shaft (see Photo #2). It’ll fall right off now.
3. Then remove the inner front end plate (see Photos #3 & #4). There are four screws from the front end.
4. Now for the “big moment.” You will separate the upper (drum) half and the lower (developer) half. Start by disconnecting the white connector for the discharge LED, which is tucked into an alcove low down on the front end. Then the entire top half of the cartridge can hinge up to the right (see Photo #5). Now shimmy it backwards off its hinge pins and lift it on off of there.
5. To get the drum out requires extracting the drum shaft through the rear end. If you remove the drum drive coupling first, you’ll see what is going on much clearer (it is pressed on and will come off if you work it off of there). The trick is that there’s an indexing cross pin in the shaft, which is in a slot in the drum’s rear hub. That pin needs to be lined up with a matching slot in the rear frame of the cartridge in order to pull the shaft out the rear. In photo #6 you can see what the drum shaft’s indexing pin looks like as you extract the shaft from the rear of the cartridge. Photo #7 shows the drum’s slot and the slot in the cartridge next to each other. When you go to install a new drum (4150DR) and reassemble things, remember to line up those two slots so you can push the drum shaft with its cross pin all the way in until the pin engages the drum’s hub to drive it.
6. Next you can remove the charge roll assembly. There are four screws: two from the right side, one from the front end, and one from the rear end (see Photo #8). Clean out the charge roll assembly, install a new charge roll (4150CR), and gently vacuum the sponge-cleaning roll in the assembly.

Note 1: (differences) The charge roll holder assemblies are shaped differently in each version of the cartridge. These assemblies are not interchangeable, although the charge roll itself is. Note 2: The charge roll has a plastic “gear” looking piece on one end, which actually doesn’t engage anything. It serves only as a spacer. You will need to extract the old one and re-use it on the new charge roller.

7. To get to the drum cleaning blade you must first remove the discharge LED and its light bar. This looks like a long discharge lamp but at closer inspection, you’ll see it is really just a single LED at the front end that lights up the Lucite light bar (see Photo #9). The light bar is somewhat flexible in spite of its fragile appearance. You’ll want to start by removing the front drum shaft ground contact. Pry very gently at the metal where it is pushed onto each of the two plastic posts, but don’t mangle it. You want to be able to push the metal burrs back onto the posts later and have them still be able to grab the posts firmly. With the contact out of your way, you can push the discharge light bar forward and out through the front end. The discharge LED board is easily removed to clean the LED.

8. With the discharge light bar out of your way, the drum cleaning blade can be removed and replaced (4150DB) (two screws).

9. Now for the lower half of the cartridge, the developer unit part of our adventure! Remove the slide shutter from the left side of the cartridge (slide it back until it comes off its track). Next comes the developer unit top cover (four screws and a series of clips). Pry very gently starting at the front left corner. Be careful, as you don’t want to damage the foam gasket under the edges of this top cover

10. Dump as much of the old developer from the unit as you can. Use a brush to help clean out the cavities wherever you can reach, and to brush developer off of the mag roll. If you turn the mag roll backwards (clockwise when looking at the rear end), it will speed up the developer removal considerably. Keep in mind that there is a low toner sensor. It is located behind a removable cover on the bottom of the cartridge. This sensor cannot be easily removed so you will not be able to safely vacuum this section of the cartridge. Static discharge can blow the sensor and ruin your work. Compressed air or a vacuum is NOT recommended on this half of the cartridge.

11. Pour the new shot of developer into the stirring area and turn the stirring paddle and mag roll by hand, using a flat headed screwdriver to turn the coupling on the rear of the cartridge in the process direction, which is counterclockwise. Do not overfill the cartridge. The white auger on the left side of the cartridge should not be covered past half way with developer.

12. Reassemble everything and replace the drum reset CRUM (Customer Replaceable Unit Monitor). For the location of the CRUMs, see the photos and info below.

13. Finally, you can install the developer pull-seal. See the photos below:

Nice work! Happy Reconditioning in 2016 everyone!